First, to the National Sea Lion Conservancy on the Southern
Ocean. Guided by a docent we walked onto the beach and watched the antics of
the Australian Sea Lion. Here, at the
same south altitude that Monterey, CA is north, we watched the seals…and looked
south to the 3000 miles of open ocean to Antarctica. Mind boggling.
Then we backed onto the ferry for a rather rough crossing over the
Backstairs Passage.
Stopping in Goolwa, an hour later we crossed the Murray River on a cable ferry at Wellington, its last point before the ocean.
Time for a geographic orientation: the Murray is the longest river in Australia,
and combined with the Darling, the Murray-Darling system drains 90% of eastern
Australia. Just before the Murray flows into the Southern Ocean, it enters a
large fresh water lake system, one that includes Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert. Combined, these lakes cover a thousand square
miles…and are only separated from the sea by a 2½ mile wide sand spit. In
early summer it teems with wildlife and hosts many migratory North American
birds that fly 10,000 miles round trip to be here. Most noteworthy is the shearwater.
If you are a biologist…”meningies” would mean the lining on
the outside of the brain…but in Australia it is just a gorgeous little town
sitting on Lake Albert. We settled into our lakeside campsite, drank shiraz and
watched the waterbirds, and seared our marinated kangaroo.
This is not California!
We have learned this: if it is weird and wonderful, it is Australian :)

How did the kangaroo taste?!
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